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DRAINAGE

Connections
Counting The Cost
Cutting The Trenches
Depth Of Trenches
Establishing A Grade
Kind Of Tile
Locating Main And Branches
Material For The Drains
Permanency Desired
Size Of Tile
The Grade
The Laterals
The Modern Fallow
The Outlet
Underdrainage

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A Practical Test
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A Three Years' Rotation
Acid Phosphate
Acquaintance With Terms
Adaptation To Eastern Needs
Affecting Physical Condition
All The Nitrogen From Clover
Alsike Clover
Amount Of Application
Amount Of Manure



Cutting The Trenches








There are ditching-machines that do efficient
work. The best are costly. Most of the work on farms will continue to
be done with ditching-spades. The ground should be moved when wet, so
that labor can be saved.

A line should be used to secure a straight side to the trench. The
grade should be obtained by means of a system of strings. If two light
poles be pushed into the ground at each 100-feet station, one on either
side of the proposed trench, and a string be drawn across at a point
5-1/2 feet above the bottom of the proposed trench, these strings will
be in line on a grade 5-1/2 feet above the grade the drain will have.
As the cut at the station is known, the height of the string above the
top of the stake is easily determined. These strings will reveal any
inaccuracy in the survey. The workman can test every part of the bottom
of the trench by use of a rod 5-1/2 feet high, the top end being
exactly in line with the strings when the lower end is placed on the
correct grade of the trench. This device is better than running water
where grades are slight.

A drain scoop should be used in bottom of the trench to make a resting
place for the tile that will prevent any displacement by the soil when
the trench is filled.





Next: Depth Of Trenches

Previous: Establishing A Grade



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